Summer School: eBay Shopping Secrets

In case you don’t feverishly hit the search engines seeking out every morsel that I spit into the digital world, this week’s Summer School is a piece I wrote for my Uptown Messenger column. Click on over where I share the tricks that I use to navigate that online marketplace behemoth that is eBay. Hint: narrow your selection and reap the rewards.

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Summer School: Sanforized

If you’ve ever wandered into a vintage shop, chances are you’ve seen a garment with the word “sanforized” proudly stitched into the label. First trademarked in the USA in the 1930s, sanforization is actually a way to treat fabric so that it doesn’t shrink, even after repeated laundering. I always equate the word with vintage apparel, yet the Sanforized company is still around today.

The process itself is rather fascinating. Fabric is fed through a special machine that dampens the cloth, then a cylinder presses a rubber band around another heated cylinder, which shrinks the the band. The treated cloth is sandwiched between the rubber band and the cylinder, which allows the fabric to expand and contract. The result? Fabric that doesn’t shrink during the manufacturing process. Textile mills can use the Sanforized trademark only if they comply to strict testing requirements. If a garment is comprised primarily of Sanforized material than it may be labeled as such. 

If you’d like to learn more, there’s a wealth of knowledge on the Sanforized website.

Original 1963 Sanforized ad

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Summer School: Vintage Tips

Text by Meghan Wright

Vintage is becoming increasingly popular, and it’s a great way to find unique or one of a kind pieces. Whether you’re scouring through the racks at your favorite thrift store, or browsing a cute boutique, here are some tips to help you better understand your vintage shopping experience.

Is it Vintage?
Pieces from the 1940s to the early 1990s are vintage. Anything older is antique, anything newer is contemporary
{editors note: I’ve always considered vintage to be 30 years old, thus placing 80s and 90s attire in the retro category.  However it seems everyone has a different opinion on what’s truly vintage these days.}

What decade is it?
With the way trends and styles come back, the best way to determine if an item is actually vintage is the construction of the garment. I’ve seen some amazing crochet dresses, that if it weren’t for the contemporary tag, would appear to be straight from the early ’70s. Once you’ve determined that a piece is vintage, the best way to know what decade is to simply study up on the styles of previous decades.

Here are some tips on determining true vintage and what decade:

  •  Clothing didn’t have washing instructions on the tags until the 1970s. This makes it particularly easy to discern whether an item is from the ’60s or ’70s, as certain styles were very similar in those decades. 
  • Clothing from the ’60s and earlier will often have a metal zipper. Most clothing is now made with plastic zippers, or nice metal zippers. Vintage metal zippers are rough and slightly thicker than modern zippers.
  • Earlier pieces will sometimes have buttons instead of zippers, but they’ll always have one of the two. Pullover dresses with elastic waists didn’t come about until the ’70s.
  • In the ’60s and earlier, tags weren’t as mass produced as they are today. The tag on the garment will typically be a rectangular shape, with only the brand name and sometimes a location.
  •  Let the different patterns and prints help you identify what decade the item is from. For example: Light florals, muted colors, polka dots, pin dots and checkered patterns were common in the ’40s and ’50s. Color blocking, bigger, brighter florals, paisley and geometric prints were common for the ’60s and ’70s. Neons, animal prints, geometric prints (again) were common in the 80′s. Darker florals, ditsy florals and plaid were common in the 90′s.
A tag from a 1950s era dress

Where to get it:
Thrift stores are always a great place to search for vintage, though you’ll mostly find pieces from the ’70s – ’90s. Consignment shops and vintage stores are an excellent place to find rare pieces in good to excellent condition. They are of course a bit pricier, but you’ll almost always find a treasure.

Keep up with local estate sales. Some of the most amazing pieces I’ve come across were from estate sales. You can also find great vintage jewelry at flea markets.

Then of course, there is online vintage shopping. eBay and Etsy are two great places for vintage. Two things to remember: Some retailers will label an item “vintage” when it actually a contemporary reproduction. Pay attention to the item’s photos and details. Secondly, vintage sizes are drastically different from modern sizes. You may be a size 6 now, but that size 16 dress from the 1950s might fit you perfectly. Measure yourself and pay close attention to the measurements listed in the item’s description. If there aren’t any, ask the seller to measure the garment for you. Never rely on the tag’s size.

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Summer School: French Seams

I’m happy to announce a new weekly series that I’ve been scheming up for a while- welcome to Summer School.  Each week we will be delving into a different topic, from mini sewing lessons, terminology, to fashion history. Fashion is so much richer than just trendy, mass produced items that get hyped up by grocery store magazines. It’s an art form, cultural touch stone, and a way of expressing oneself.  So get ready to learn something new every week, and please let us know what y’all think in the comments below.

 Finishing touches are the hallmark of good quality clothes. Call me a fashion geek, but whenever I’m trying to figure out if a piece of clothing is worth spending a few extra dollars on, I start inspecting the guts of the garment.  It’s a habit I’ve developed thanks to working with secondhand clothing for over seven years- if I don’t recognize the name brand, construction is always a telltale sign that I’ve stumbled upon something special.

French seam, as seen on an Andrea Loest tunic

 Seams are everything- no matter how luxurious that silk skirt feels, if it’s shoddily stitched together then it’s a waste of good fabric. One nice detail seen on higher end clothing is a French seam. Best used on light to mid-weight fabrics, this technique encloses the edges of the fabric for a clean finish. The seam is sewn with the wrong sides together, then the seam allowance* is trimmed and pressed. A second seam is sewn with the right sides together, enclosing the raw edges into the original seam allowance encapsulating the raw edges. It’s not difficult to do, but it does take a bit of extra fabric, thread, and work. In other words, you won’t see this on a cheaply made run of the mill dress. That additional cost is worth it- you’ll get a piece of clothing that’s built to last.

 If you’d like to perfect your own French seam, check out this excellent instructional video I found on You Tube from Detroit Knitter. 

*A seam allowance is the area in between the edge of the fabric and the actual seam. Just think of it as a little wiggle room- you wouldn’t want to sew right on the edge and risk ripping the seam open once the garment actually gets tried on.

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