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Your Sedona Travel Guide

Sedona sunsets never get old

Last summer Thomas and I fulfilled a longterm dream of spending summers in Northern Arizona. If one good thing came out of Covid, it was the ability to work remotely. We were out walking the dogs in New Orleans during quarantine when one of us uttered the words “What if we spent a month in Sedona?” From then on, we couldn’t shake the idea from our heads. With stimulus checks in hand, we booked a month-long stay at Red Rock Suites, an apartment situated on the main strip but far enough away from the touristy area so that we felt socially distanced without sacrificing convenience. We had so much fun last summer that we’re doing it again next month. Here are some of my favorite spots to eat, drink and put some mileage on those hiking boots. And since we’re doing it again this year, I’ll provide more detailed guides soon.

EN ROUTE

Cadillac Ranch Amarillo, TX

We drove from New Orleans to Sedona, which took us three days and roughly 23.5 hours. We did this for a few reasons: we felt safer driving during Covid, a car is a must in Sedona, and we had a lot of stuff to bring since we were staying so long.

We’ve made the drive from New Orleans to Arizona several times, usually taking the I-10. This time, we went up through Dallas and took I-40, which gave us the option to check out new places en route.

We stayed in Dallas both getting there and coming back, but switched up our second night on the road. Amarillo, TX was one of our stops because it was close to the TX/NM border and I wanted to check out Cadillac Ranch, a classic roadside attraction that features a car art installation. It was really interesting, but be prepared for semi-large crowds of people adding their own touches to the cars with spray paint.

Blue Swallow Motel, Tucumcari, NM

On the way back we stayed in Tucumcari, NM, which is right on Route 66. Tucumcari is a dream of a town and we’re staying there again this summer. It was a treat to wander down the strip and look at all the old motels. I would have liked to explore more but we had to hustle back to Dallas.

SEDONA

A little backstory: I’ve been coming to this part of the country since I was a kid. Maybe it’s the stark contrast from Louisiana’s swamps to the vast, sweeping beauty of the desert, but I’m enamored with Arizona, especially the northern part. We went to the Grand Canyon twice when I was growing up, both the South Rim and the North Rim. When my dad found out he had colon cancer in 2000, he wanted to hike to Phantom Ranch (bottom of the Canyon) before he died. He never got the chance, so doing something in honor of my dad is another big motivator for me. Thomas and I hiked to Phantom Ranch the spring after my dad died, then we worked on the South Rim for a summer in 2003. I’ve hiked to the bottom 10 times, including when we lived in Scottsdale for 3.5 years after Hurricane Katrina.

When we lived in Arizona, we spent most of our free time in Flagstaff, Jerome, and the Grand Canyon. So when we were thinking about places to stay for a month, Sedona came to mind since we hadn’t spent much time there.

So, what’s there to do in Sedona? Hiking, hiking, and more hiking. According to AllTrails, there are over 500 trails at your disposal, most of which link up so you can take a short hike or opt for a longer one by hiking multiple trails in one go. It doesn’t take much to feel like you’re in the middle of nowhere, even when you’re surrounded by neighborhoods or the highway. We hiked nearly every day and didn’t scratch the surface.

If you’re headed to Sedona in the summer, be mindful that it can get brutally hot during the day. Since Thomas worked early afternoons into early evenings, we would hit the trail between 5-6:30, which left us plenty of time to do shorter (under five miles) hikes before it got dark. The other great thing about Sedona is the access. Almost every hike we did was a five to 10 minute drive from our apartment.

An advantage of hiking later in the day was cooler temperatures, and we got to see bats flying at dusk. You’ll definitely want to bring a headlamp; one night we wandered too far and were stuck hiking in the pitch black. We also got a little lost in the dark. We encountered several tarantulas and one pissed off rattlesnake, so be mindful of wildlife, especially at night. That said, the stars are incredible thanks to less light pollution.

WHERE TO EAT

Since it was the height of the pandemic and we had a full kitchen, we mostly cooked at home. We did get takeout about twice a week, and there were a few places that offered outdoor seating where we felt safe. Keep in mind that everything is changing and opening back up, so we’ll probably feel a bit better about eating in restaurants this time around.

Our favorites, in no particular order:

  • Pisa Lisa — Really good pizza with outdoor seating. Expect a wait if you’re dining there.
  • The Sundowner — The only bar we went to. They serve a no frills burger in a neighborhood bar, hole in the wall setting. It was a refreshing change from Sedona’s upscale vibe and it’s right across the street from Red Rock Suites.
  • Butterfly Burger — Oh, you fancy? Upscale burgers for when you want something more creative than the classics. Technically in the village of Oak Creek, not Sedona.
  • Sona Kitchen and Boba — Walkup takeout bubble tea shop in the heart of Uptown Sedona. It’s surprisingly good for being in a super touristy area. The salt & pepper popcorn chicken is really satisfying.
  • Tamaliza– Authentic Mexican restaurant with outstanding tamales. I only ate there once but I’ll definitely go back.
  • Oak Creek Brewery and Grill– I’m a sucker for soft pretzels and beer. Oak Creek has both. I’ve eaten here numerous times over the years. They also have great beer. Get the beer flight!
  • Hilltop Deli– Classic deli fare, quick and easy. Really good sandwiches you can stash in your backpack for a day hike.

WHAT TO DO (BESIDES HIKE)

Again, since we were in Arizona at the height of the pandemic we definitely limited our outings to outdoor, socially distant activities. Here are some of my favorites. Keep in mind that I’m leaving out the more obvious choices, like Tlaquepaque. There’s tons of mentions in other guides.

  • Thrift stores– If you’re only in town for a few days, I wouldn’t spend hours thrifting. But I got some real gems, including clothing and housewares. Maybe I’ll write a Sedona thrift guide, but if you Google “Sedona thrift store” you’ll get a good list.
  • Swimming– It’s so hot during the summer, and Sedona has plenty of places to swim. Two of the most popular are Grasshopper Point and Slide Rock, both located in Oak Creek Canyon. I highly recommend going during the week, as the weekend crowds get thick and parking is really difficult.
  • Lounging– We really wanted a pool day, so we took advantage of cheaper rates because of Covid and booked a one night stay at Los Abrigados Resort. We soaked in the pool and hot tub and played a round of mini golf while we were there. They also have private creek access, so you can swim in the creek if you prefer that.

BEYOND SEDONA

Grand Canyon at sunset

You could spend a lifetime in Arizona and not see and do everything the 48th state has to offer. Aside from the stunning desert views, the other benefit in staying in Sedona is the proximity to so many of our other favorite areas. Here’s a rundown of where we went and what we did. I’ll do some followup posts later this summer with more details.

  • Prescott– About an hour from Sedona, Prescott is another charming city with lots of hiking. We spent one day here kayaking on Watson Lake, then did a quick hike afterwards.
  • Jerome– I’ve spent a lot of time in Jerome when we lived in Scottsdale. A 30 minute drive from Sedona, Jerome is perched atop a mountain and is a former ghost town. There’s plenty of art galleries, shops, bars, and restaurants, which makes for a good afternoon. There are also some steep inclines, so be prepared.
  • Flagstaff– Halfway to the Grand Canyon, Flagstaff also has a ton of hiking and the downtown area is really cute. We did some hiking here last trip and hit up Bookman’s, my absolute favorite used bookstore.
  • Grand Canyon– I don’t know where to begin. I’ve spent so much time in the Canyon throughout the years. Just go, even if you don’t step foot on a trail. The Canyon is so majestic that I cry every time I go.

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